Phone: 01-45-63-92-21
You will know you have found Aux Amis de Beaujolais by the crowds; at lunchtime every bar stool and dining-room table is filled with local businesspeople, and during dinner all the seats are again fully occupied by smart, value-minded Parisians and clued-in visitors. Bernard Picolet's family has been greeting and feeding their devoted regulars since 1921. His son now workds with him in the kitchen, and his wife runs the front. Their food is full-bodied and satisfying -- and no doubt ruinous for our cholesterol count and arteries -- but the down-to-earth cooking and generous portions will make you a regular whenever you are lucky enough to be in Paris. Here is the place to try homespun dishes of céleri rémoulade, pâte de campagne, cucumbers in cream, or fromage blanc showered with fresh herbs. The fish changes every day, but in the meat department you can always count on magret de canard, beef tartare with frites or a salad, and grilled steaks. Beef tongue, sautéed lamb with fat white beans, and an andouillette also often make appearances. The suitably soothing desserts are all made here. Try the creamy rice pudding, any of the fruit tartes, or the satiny chocolate mousee.
Comments courtesy of Great Eats Paris by Sandra Gustafson, (c) 2004, Chronicle Books LLC.